Once a common practice for decades, then a novelty, the (almost) forgotten skill of the shoe shiner is steadily making a comeback. Did he ride? Kevin Tuohy, co-founder of The Shoeshine Guild of San Francisco, thinks this is because more and more men are becoming fashion conscious.
A professional shoe shiner in his 20s, Tuohy has seen it all and can follow trends from his back room. He first acquired talent in the military, then trained in San Francisco and spent years improving his technique. He opened The Shoeshine Guild in 1996, when A Shine & Co. called, to provide a high quality shoe care service that goes beyond just polishing and uses the best products on the market. He thinks of a day spa for shoes and boots.
During your visit, Tuohy can determine what type of leather your shoes are made of and immediately prescribe a maintenance plan, even before you sit down in your leather jacket with your foot on the shoe stand. Different skin types require different levels of care, but the basic technique is the same.
How to polish boots and shoes
Step 1: Get the gloves
It is very important to wear rubber or latex gloves when polishing your shoes. Some polishes, creams, and cleansers that treat leather can stain the leather, and some contain even harsher chemicals that you definitely don’t want to come into contact with on bare skin. Tuohy therefore recommends wearing protective gear at all times just to be on the safe side.
Step 2: Clean your shoes
You never want to polish a dirty shoe; it will only further damage the skin and result in an uneven sheen. With Saphir Universal leather conditioner and a toothbrush remove visible dirt from your shoe. The most abrasive area is the ridge where the sole meets the upper. If not, after cleaning and polishing your shoes, you’ll notice a dirt ring around the shoe “like scum in a bathtub,” as Tuohy puts it. Once the shoes are as clean as possible, use a regular shoe brush to remove the excess conditioner and brush the entire surface of the shoe in quick back and forth strokes.
Step 3: Know your skin
If it’s a non-porous leather like cordovan shell, you can start waxing, buffing and you’re done. However, for softer, more pliable leather, such as calfskin, you should use a conditioner. Tuohy uses Saphir Cream (leather-based color) to add color and condition the leather, making it more beautiful and soft to the touch. It also prevents the skin from getting too dry or wet. Apply a little to a cotton cloth or old T-shirt and rub lightly in circular motions.
Step 4: Add a protective polish
For the harder leathers, Tuohy used a wax polish at this stage, but for the softer calfskin boots he uses a cream polish from Saphir Pommadier (again, the color matches the pigment of the leather). The more porous the skin, the more the cream will be absorbed by the skin. And after that, Tuohy suggests following the mantra: “A little goes a long way.” All it takes is a pin or two on the cotton fabric for a boot. Rub in the thicker cream, again in a circular motion, this time with a little more elbow grease.
Step 5: Brush and polish
Brush off the excess lotion with the brush the same way you would clean your shoes. At this point, you can add another layer of thicker cream if you like, and Tuohy recommends adding small amounts in layers. The more coatings, the more protection and the more protection, the longer the shine lasts.
Step 6: Warm it up and shine
When you’ve applied as many coats as you like (usually two coats are enough, but a little extra polish never hurts), take a cotton cloth, one end in each hand, and quickly pull it back and forth as you tugging. on the skin. This polishing process uses friction to create heat, which helps the polish adhere to the skin and create a finer sheen.
